"Unlike team sports, surfing is more of a personal journey. It is a direct connection between the surfer and the sea. Surfers describe it sometimes in spiritual terms. This might seem hyperbolic to those who don’t surf themselves, but launching yourself into a rolling wave that has travelled thousands of miles across the open ocean puts one in tune with the rhythms of nature in a way that few other sports can match."
I'll try to keep this up as a regular feature here on the blog. An easy way to update it from time to time. :-)